After two tough growing years in California, the relatively perfect growing season and harvest of 2012 may show us how winemakers want to make their wine. Wines like the North Coast Syrah that are blends from different vineyards give us further insight into how winemakers (in this case Morgan Twain-Peterson) envision versions of given varietals. Syrah especially, given it’s sort of dichotomous nature (warm/cool), offers further transparency into the preferences of the winemaker.
I’m happy to say that Twain-Peterson and I have similar tastes because this is a decidedly cool-climate Syrah. It’s still a crowd pleaser, a wine with a rich mid-palate and a fair amount of up-front fruit. It’s not a wine that falls into the “too cool for school” crowd. Although it has some of those tendencies, I wouldn’t say it tends toward austerity. It’s a wine that even those who like their Syrahs big and juicy will appreciate although it probably won’t hit their palates in the perfect sweet spot. It’s kind of like a hipster band that garners the respect of the Pitchfork readers yet also appeals to the masses.
The wine: There’s a high toned nose of anise and salty black olive. Ripe fresh blackberry, no jam here, pretty big tannins on the finish but integrated. That salty olive carries over from the nose onto the mid-palate and the finish. This is not a lean wine but rather it’s full and elegant at the same time. Very little oak is present on this wine.
This is the kind of wine you want to have a lot of for yourself and for guests. Fortunately, this is one of Bedrock’s larger production wines so it shouldn’t be too hard to find.